How to Choose a Sunscreen: SPF, UVA and Choosing by Skin Type

Smiling woman applying cream to her cheeks with her fingertips

Short answer

Choosing a sunscreen rests on three conditions: at least SPF 30, broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, and a texture that suits your skin. Light gels suit oily skin, creams dry skin and tinted mineral products pigmentation-prone skin. Applying enough and reapplying every 2 hours matters as much as the factor. In Denizli, Dr. Tuba Çelebi Kayhan advises on your choice.

At a glance

Protection factorAt least SPF 30
Label wordingBroad spectrum (UVA and UVB)
When to applyAbout 15 minutes before going out in the sun
ReapplicationEvery 2 hours; straight after swimming, sweating or towelling
For skin with pigmentationTinted mineral product containing iron oxide

Sunscreen is the common thread in preventing pigmentation, changes in moles and skin ageing. There may be countless products on the shelves, but only a few criteria make the choice easier: protection factor, UVA protection, filter type and a texture that suits your skin.

At our clinic we see sunscreen not as a cosmetic preference but as part of treatment. Both keeping the results of pigmentation treatment and preventing new marks depend largely on a well-chosen product, applied properly.

What Does the SPF Number Tell You?

SPF (sun protection factor) measures how well a product protects against the UVB rays that cause sunburn. The American Academy of Dermatology and the NHS in the UK recommend at least SPF 30. The highest level on labels is written as 50+.

SPF only describes UVB; it tells you nothing about UVA, which plays a large part in skin ageing and pigmentation. That is why looking at the factor alone is not enough.

How Can You Tell UVA Protection from the Label?

The words "broad spectrum" on a label show that the product protects against both UVA and UVB. On products sold in Europe, the "UVA" symbol in a circle shows that UVA protection meets the set standard. On products sold in the UK, UVA protection is shown with stars out of 5.

UVA rays reach the skin all year round, on cloudy days and behind window glass. This is one of the reasons pigmentation does not fully clear even in the winter months.

Why does visible light matter in melasma?

In melasma, the visible light of the sun can also darken the patches. Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxide give extra protection against this light. The tint also covers the white cast that mineral filters leave.

Mineral or Chemical Filters?

Sunscreens fall into two groups according to the filters they contain. Many products contain both types of filter together.

CriterionMineral (physical) filterChemical (organic) filter
Active ingredientZinc oxide, titanium dioxideOrganic compounds such as avobenzone and octocrylene
How it worksStays on the skin surface, reflecting and scattering lightAbsorbs light and reduces its effect
AppearanceCan leave a white cast; tinted versions cover thisClear and spreads easily
Sensitive skinLess irritation and stingingCan sting around the eyes
Where it stands outSensitive skin and rosacea, pregnancy, children, skin after a procedureSport and heavy sweating, people who do not want a white cast

How Do You Choose a Sunscreen for Your Skin Type?

Oily and acne-prone skin

Choose oil-free gels or fluids that do not block pores (non-comedogenic). Matte-finish formulas reduce shine during the day.

Dry skin

Creamy products rich in moisturising ingredients ease tightness. If you use a separate moisturiser, apply it first and then your sunscreen.

Sensitive skin and rosacea

Fragrance-free, alcohol-free mineral products are better tolerated. When switching to a new product, it is a good habit to try it on a small area under the chin for a few days first.

Skin with pigmentation and melasma

Choose a high-factor, broad-spectrum product, preferably tinted with iron oxide. The same principle applies in pregnancy: for protecting against pigmentation in pregnancy, tinted mineral products are the first choice.

Darker skin

Clear products, or tinted ones that match your skin tone, leave no white cast and make regular use easier. In darker skin the sun also increases pigmentation and darkening after inflammation; the need for protection does not go away.

How Much Sunscreen Should You Apply, and How Often?

The most common cause of sunburn is not the wrong product but too little of it, never reapplied. The basic rules recommended by the sources are:

  1. Apply about 15 minutes before going out in the sun.
  2. An adult needs about a shot glass full, that is 6 to 8 teaspoons, to cover all the skin not covered by clothing. Apply a generous layer to the face, ears and neck.
  3. When you are outdoors, reapply every 2 hours.
  4. Reapply straight away after swimming, heavy sweating or drying with a towel. "Water-resistant" products protect for 40 or 80 minutes.
  5. Do not forget the ears, the back of the neck, the tops of the feet, the backs of the hands and the lips.

Is the SPF in make-up and moisturiser enough?

Foundation or moisturiser with SPF is not applied thickly enough to give the protection stated on the label. Think of these products as an extra layer on top of your sunscreen. For topping up during the day, mineral powders or sprays are a practical help.

How Should You Protect Your Skin from the Sun After a Procedure?

After peels, laser and light treatments the skin is in a phase of renewal and is far more sensitive to the sun. Unprotected sun at this stage can bring back a mark that has faded, or leave new darkening where the procedure was done.

  • After a chemical peel: sunscreen and a hat are used together until the skin has fully renewed.
  • After Q-switched laser and BBL: the treated area is protected from the sun for at least a few weeks, and crusts are left to fall off on their own.
  • After Cosmelan: the high-factor sunscreen included in the pack is reapplied during the day as you are instructed.
  • After a medical facial: in the first days after treatments that include cleansing and peeling, a mineral product is preferred.

When we plan skin care under a dermatologist's supervision or pigmentation treatment with laser and peels, we also decide from the outset which product you will use after the procedure.

How Does Sunscreen Affect Moles and Skin Cancer?

Regular sun protection is one of the basic measures against sun-related skin cancers. Sunscreen alone is not enough: staying in the shade around midday when the sun is high, a hat, sunglasses and long-sleeved clothing are the other parts of protection. A sunbed, meanwhile, is not made safe by any sunscreen.

If you have many moles or a family history of melanoma, sun protection needs to go hand in hand with regular mole checks.

What Mistakes Do People Make When Choosing Sunscreen?

  • Using it only in summer and only at the seaside
  • Staying in the sun for longer after applying a high-factor product
  • Applying a thin layer and not reapplying all day
  • Using a product that is out of date or has been left in a hot car
  • Giving up on a product that does not suit the skin and then using no sunscreen at all

The last point matters: if a product was abandoned because it caused spots, stinging or a white cast, the problem lies not with sunscreen itself but with the texture chosen.

How Do We Find the Right Sunscreen for You in Denizli?

At the examination we look at your skin type, your tendency to pigmentation or acne, the other products you use and how much time you spend outdoors during the day. If you are having a treatment, we also tell you which filter and texture suit that type of procedure. To see Dr. Tuba Çelebi Kayhan, give us a call.

Frequently asked questions

If I use SPF 50, can I stay in the sun for longer?
No. A higher factor gives stronger UVB protection, but the product is still lost from the skin through sweat, water and rubbing. Even with SPF 50 you need to reapply every 2 hours and seek shade.
Can I use sunscreen left over from last summer?
If it has not passed its expiry date and has not been kept in the heat, it can be used. A product that is out of date, or whose colour, smell or consistency has changed, will not give the expected protection.
Can sunscreen cause spots?
Heavy, oily products can block pores in skin prone to acne. Choosing an oil-free gel or fluid that is labelled non-comedogenic reduces this problem considerably.
Which sunscreen should be used on babies and children?
Babies under 6 months are not taken out into direct sun; they are protected with shade and clothing. For older children, mineral, fragrance-free products of at least SPF 30 irritate the skin less.
Do I need sunscreen in winter and on cloudy days?
UVA rays pass through clouds and glass and remain active all year round. If you are prone to pigmentation or are having pigmentation treatment, we advise applying it every morning in winter too.
Which sunscreen should I use during pigmentation treatment in Denizli?
During treatment the skin is more sensitive, so you need a high-factor, broad-spectrum product that does not irritate. At our clinic, Dr. Tuba Çelebi Kayhan tells you at the examination which type of product to choose for the method used and your skin type.

Sources

  1. How to select a sunscreen — American Academy of Dermatology
  2. How to apply sunscreen — American Academy of Dermatology
  3. Sunscreen and sun safety — NHS
  4. Melasma: Diagnosis and treatment — American Academy of Dermatology

This page is for general information only and does not replace an examination, diagnosis or treatment. Please consult your doctor for advice about your own situation.